Saturday, March 12, 2011

Touring Eleuthera


We were the only boat leaving Black Point, perhaps because no one wanted to buck the big current coming against us in Dotham (adverse 2.5 knots at 7 am with a high tide at the Wide Opening around 9:30). Winds were exactly as Parker had predicted, 12 knots from NE, so we managed to eke out a decent sail at least for part of the day. We arrived at Powell Point at 1400 and then faced the 17 knot wind on our nose for the next couple of hours, anchoring across from the dinghy dock at Four Points Restaurant at 1640. Since many boats were anchored here we figured there must be a free internet signal around and sure enough, a connection could be had in the wee hours, enough for a blog update.

We decided to rent a car and while tying up the dinghy George from Majors Taxi and Car Rental approached us with the offer of a car for $60, $15 cheaper than Dingle’s. If you don’t mind a little dirt on the floor, you can reach George at 242-554-6344 for a rental.


We had a nice pizza lunch in Palmetto Point (the settlement by Pineapple Cays where we first met Jay and Di four years ago) and had our next stop in Governor’s Harbor, where we decided to walk the Atlantic beach for treasures. We asked a local where the beach access could be found, and he volunteered his path, which turned out to lead through the old Club Med. This former resort was shell shocked by a hurricane several years ago and apparently taken over by something called French Leave.
Abandoned again, it retains its regal beauty and pink beaches but you will not find a damned thing to take home with you here, other than nice photos.

We decided we were going to drive to Gregorytown to see the Glass Window, a rock formation where the Bight of Eleuthera meets the Atlantic Ocean, with the Queen’s Highway continuing over a bridge over top. Having been told this was 50 minutes from Rock Sound, it seemed like we drove for hours (well, at least well over an hour) to gaze upon the ferocious waters of the Atlantic mating with the Sound. Don’t bother with this, sail past it, and read all about the various souls washed off the bridge during rogue waves and nor’easters in Pavlidis’ On and Off the Beaten Path. Take the time to shell along the beaches of the Sound along the way instead. Eleuthera is the best location we know of to find milk conch, some totally white, some with a strong purple hue and perhaps not milk conch at all.


The next day we continued, this time South, through several impoverished settlements.
We picked up two hitchhikers who wanted to get to a food market to provision, but asked to be dropped at a liquor store instead, perhaps opting for a liquid lunch. Next came Michael, who asked if we could buy him a meal, and sucker that I am, we agreed, and set to driving him to town. During the short drive Michael, stinking to high heavens and carrying an empty bucket and a machete, explained all he wanted was rice, and $5 to buy some oil to make a fire, and God Bless You M’aam. I suggested Michael might want to get that $5 from some one else, and after I ran in and bought the rice and handed it to him, he left without a thanks. I am sure is still looking for that oil money, or has found another generous idiot who actually thinks you make a fire with oil.

We stumbled across the New Port Mouth Lodge and although it looked welcoming, we could find no one to explain its philosophy. They probably spend their time sitting around and putting backward in their pockets.

1 comment:

skb said...

Good to see you with a cold one in hand and a smiley face! Glad you are recovering......we are in town - on and off for next 3 weeks.
BE careful :-} S&B