Wednesday, April 15, 2009
For some reason, Rum Cay has always had an attraction to us, so this was our choice upon leaving Clarence Town. The predicted wind direction and the arrival of a cold front suggested we take a slip instead of anchoring out. When I phoned in the reservation, the dock master volunteered pilot services to enter the marina, which is bordered by numerous reefs and slightly above the surface coral heads.
As we approached, I listened to Sumner Point verbally guide in a boat, who continually said he could not see the buoys and despite the marina talk-through, ran aground. The next boat in also complained about missing markers, but got in only “with indigestion” according to the captain.
So, I requested the previously offered pilot and after an initial indication that no one was available, we were contacted by two guys in a dinghy who safely led us in. Had we followed the waypoints that I had set up along the Explorer suggested route, we would have been fine. Hindsight is perfect, as they say.
The first night we dined at the marina restaurant, which we had read had 4 star meals. We had a decent repast of wahoo, rice, and mixed veggies; it was OK for $15 each.
The following day we walked into town (what there is of it), checked out the grocery store (as would be expected), posted some mail, and visited with Batelco to reinstate my prepaid minutes, which on my Bahamas phone expire after 90 days of purchase. We use this phone to speak with Aunt Dar and Beth, and leave messages for Lisa, Dave and Willow, who are never home.
We had planned to eat at Kaye’s Restaurant, cited by Pavlides as the very best native food in the Bahamas, bar none. At noon, we found a few folks at the bar and joined them for a liquid lunch. Elenor, the proprietor, came out to speak with us. She is a gracious lady perhaps in her 80’s, and she shared a bit of Rum’s history with us. Kaye, her daughter, runs the grocery store and we were referred to her to make a reservation for dinner. Back to Last Chance Grocery where Kaye informed us she did not have time to cook today. But we bought a loaf of coconut bread, as recommended by Junior, her cousin.
We sat out our first thunderstorm in two years in the Bahamas. One loud crack of thunder, no lightning, and glorious rain as the front passed.
The following day we anchored out to wait for the northeast swell to diminish, so that anchoring at Conception Island, our next destination, would not be an unpleasant experience.