Friday, January 9, 2009
On Jan 5 we arrived at Spanish Wells, a hard working mostly white community of lobstermen. (I don’t these citizens would have voted for Obama.) There is no anchorage here, there are 8 moorings (3 for very shallow draft boats it would appear), and we were lucky to find vacancies. These may be reserved in advance. Everything on Spanish Wells is priced very reasonably, and it is a thriving settlement. Homes are painted in pastels and are surrounded with well tended gardens.
Near the waterfront is a great seafood store where we bought stone crabs ($10/lb), lobster tails ($15/lb) and grouper ($7). At the golf cart rental store there are neat and inexpensive gifts (wait till you see Willow). Both groceries were out of milk and veggies as we had just missed the mail boat which brings in supplies. Walking the island takes all day, but you are rewarded with lovely architecture and a beautiful beach. Peter had a ball at the Ponderosa Shell Shop picking out his conch horn, which by tradition is sounded at sunset.
On the opposite side of the harbor there are many stores and a few restaurants. At the Islander Shop Nancy on Blue Bay replenished her wardrobe and I helped the local economy as well. We had several meals at The Gap and lunch at Eagles Landing, where I had a “plain Duke”, something that is supposed to be beef and tastes like BBQ but is sort of the consistency of Taylor Ham. There is no booze served or sold in all of Spanish Wells.
That did not stop us from having cocktails with former cruisers Gene and Tom of Amadon Light, six months residents here. Every time a new cruiser comes to Spanish Wells Tom runs you down and invites you to tip a few on their porch. They are a wealth of information and good company, also providing the world’s very best book exchange. Here we met Ann and Greg on Rainbeau.
We shared happy hour with Diane and Pete on Pearl, hailing from New York. It is so good to hook up with folks who have NY accents and understand Curb Your Enthusiasm, which thanks to daughter Beth we are seeing for the first time. Love it Beth although your Dad usually has no idea what is going on. Diane is hysterical and I hope we see more of them in our travels.
I got a great haircut at Classy Cuts for $20, and also got my fill of the local gossip. We had an intermittent internet signal in the mooring field, but too weak to upload pictures or sustain a conversation on Skype. Internet in town was $10 an hour!